Wednesday, June 30, 2010

Slammed




Many will extol the benefits of spending the summer in the city. They will tell you of all the wonderful events, many free, how much less crowded things are, and how tickets for events are more easily available since many New Yorkers are away. This is all true. But a long wait on a subway platform or a walk in the blistering heat amid concrete and garbage will quickly reveal why so many are away and you have the "city to yourself."
I was really not very enthused about trekking all the way to 236 East 3rd Street between Avenue B and C in this type of heat and humidity to go to the Nuyorican Poets Cafe where Urban Word NYC was sponsoring the Regional Teen Poetry Slam. Asegment about this event had appeared that Sunday morning on TV. The host, an older white man was extremely effusive about a young person's poetry who was part of the event. He read some of his work. I was impressed.
I respect poetry, I have read things I like, but I do not seek it out. This event looked to be some hybrid between rap and poetry, written about issues germane to kids a fraction of my age. But why not give it a try?
It was so hot with the kind of humidity that makes your skin crawl and a shower is really just a foolish formality - undone the moment you set foot on the street. Surely it would not be crowded. Who is left in the city on a hot summer's day and who will venture out to the East Village on Sunday at noon to see poetry?
We were the first and only ones in line and although the prospect of waiting 30 minutes in the heat was very unappealing, after making the schlepp, my companion and I decided to wait. Soon kids began to arrive and fraternize on the street - apparently many were known to each other in this subculture. I met the DJ and took his photo. By 1 PM when the doors opened, the line had increased sizably.
The space itself had been reviewed negatively by some online, so I imagined a seedy basement space with no A/C. After paying a nominal $7 admission, we entered the space itself which was a big surprise - clean, cool and comfortable. We had choice of tables and were joined by a couple who were New York City High School English teachers. They had attended many poetry slams here before and had even brought their classes. They assured me I would be very pleasantly amazed. Soon the room became full and in no time, every table was taken and people were sitting on the floor or standing.
My attitude was already changing.
I thought that after four years of writing this blog that my skills and command of the English language had improved and that I aspired to becoming a wordsmith.
Until Sunday.
The command of the English language, the vocabulary, the insights, the creative writing, the rapidity of delivery, the rhymes, the rhythms, the memorization skills, the passion and theater were all nothing short of astounding. I was awed by these teenage kids.
What really struck me was that, when examined closely, this entire activity was a celebration of the word. The event was sponsored by Urban Word NYC. Linguistic fluency and interest in language and writing is not a common association made regarding inner city youth. This phenomenon is really flying under the radar. It left me slammed ...

Note: Technically this event was a slam, and like all poetry slams, that means a competition. Winners will go on to Los Angeles for the national competition. However, it was announced early on that the competitive aspect of the event was not the focus. This was a regional event and teams had come from Connecticut, Boston, Philadelphia and the home team from New York City. Poetry slams are regularly performed in New York City. The leader in this art form has been the Bowery Poetry Club. You can read my posting about it here.

Tuesday, June 29, 2010

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Monday, June 28, 2010

Asbolution and Indulgences





There are things that are fundamentally unpleasant and, apart from death, serious physical injury or absolute calamity, about one of the most unpleasant experiences you can have in New York City is to have your vehicle towed.
As bad as going through any city bureaucracy can be, there is typically some sense of accomplishment even if it is only renewing a license, obtaining a permit or having a package shipped USPS. But the entire premise of the towed vehicle adventure is only to have returned to you what is yours to begin with.
The "tow pound" is located at Pier 76 at West 38th Street & 12th Avenue, along the Hudson River, so the towee has to make a journey to a very inconvenient location. No one is pleased. Not the police who have been given the particularly ugly job of towing and have to perform this duty for all to watch on the streets of New York City. Nor are the clerks at the tow pound who often must battle with inflamed vehicle owners, many of whom have some defense, which they will learn will never do them any good at all - not here at the tow pound.
The premise is very simple - pay your fines in full or you do not get your car. The clerk does not have the ability to negotiate or reduce fines. I have been to the tow pound once to retrieve a vehicle and witnessed every manner of negotiation, all to no avail. Regardless of their culpability, everyone feels wronged.
What is astonishing is the cavalier attitude visitors have about street parking in New York City, erroneously assuming leniency. But this is a low tolerance situation. The risk is just too high - never leave an auto in New York in an illegal parking spot.
In a twist unfamiliar to me, I recently watched a very puzzling police action. A number of vehicles were towed and but only relocated to a neighboring block. The vehicles were parked on a street, legal for that time, but superseded by paper "No Parking Sunday" signs were tied below street signs for the annual Gay Pride parade. Filming, festivals, events and parades often require the clearing of streets. The NYPD adds paper signs on sign posts indicating the temporary change in parking regulation.
This vehicle relocation policy is relatively unfamiliar to many vehicle owners, particularly visitors, and the Police Department website gives virtually no details.
I have read of one incident where an individual parked legally (at the time he parked) and no special event signs had yet been posted. When he returned to a missing vehicle he called the police and no information was available. He was told that if a vehicle was relocated, look in a 5 block radius and if he could not find it, call them back.
The city has gotten more congested over the years and unless you really need to have a vehicle in the city, using public transportation and taxis will go a long way to providing a much more relaxed time here, not fraught with the continuing stresses and worry associated with parking. Especially in a city where no absolution is given and no indulgences are sold :)

Friday, June 25, 2010

Quito

At one time, I obsessed over climate and owned a compact little tome published by Pan Am. This travel guide catalogued every country in the world and most importantly, there were climate tables for every capital city. My mission was simple - to find the place with the "perfect" climate. My search, however, was biased.
At the time, I had also read books by extreme natural foodists who had similar agendas and whose motives were to find paradisaical environments to live off the land and create their own Edens. One writer, Johnny Lovewisdom*, was one of these aspirants and his quest for the world's best climate led him to the Andes outside Quito, Ecuador.
A quick perusal of my Pan Am guide confirmed that Quito was one of the world's most unique climates with an average daily high of 71 degrees and average daily low of 41 (other charts measure the average daily high at 65-67 degrees). These temperatures only fluctuate by one to two degrees over twelve months. Quito, at an altitude of 9,186 feet, is the highest legal capital in the world. The city lies within one kilometer of the equator. This unique location in the Andes and along the equator accounts for a climate which can be truly called eternal spring. Moving to Quito became my dream, or more realistically, a fantasy.
Now I dream of Quito for another reason. I live in a very special and unique older building - regular readers have seen photos - see the following links. However, like many apartments, there is no cross ventilation. Perhaps the date of the building's pre-Civil War construction in 1837 explains why segregation is still practiced in my home and bodies of air inside and outside will not mix. With windows wide open, cold air outside and warm stagnant air inside just coexist across a climactic Mason-Dixon line.
Today in New York City we have a break in the recent heat spell. Temperatures this morning moved from 71 through 77, spanning the averages, means and other ways of measuring the daily high of Ecuador's capital. The typical high temperature in Quito at noon is 77 degrees. As I write this, the current temperature in Central Park is 77 degrees. When I stand at my window's edge, lean out and feel that cool springtime air, for a moment, I'm in Quito ...

* Prior to the existence of the Internet, accurate information on elusive characters like Johnny Lovewisdom was nearly impossible to find. Now, information is readily available - his age, real name and other biographical details. See his Wikipedia entry here to read about a man at the extreme edge of dietary movements.

Thursday, June 24, 2010

With Six You Get Egg Roll


It was 1968 and I had been told our family was going to a drive-in movie and "with six you get eggroll." We were all very excited, however, I was very concerned because our family only numbered five. Anyone could clearly see that. But I trusted that my parents had some strategy - I had never had an eggroll and really wanted to try one.
The drive-in was created by Richard M. Hollingshead, Jr. in Camden, New Jersey in 1933. In its heyday in the 1950s/60s there were over 3700 drive-ins in the United States. It was the perfect family outing or place to take a date - an outdoor movie viewed from within your own private environment. Sound was provided via a speaker which could be hung on the inside of the auto's window. Concessions were a short walk away.
As my family drove to the entrance of the Drive-In, my heart sank. There it was on the marquis. With Six You Get Eggroll was the title of a film starring Doris Day (I later learned this was her last appearance in a film). No eggrolls for me.
But, once I moved to New York City, closure was achieved - I had many an eggroll. But no drive-ins. However, we have the perfect urban equivalent. For some years, films have been aired around New York City in various parks during the summer. The Bryant Park Summer Film Festival screens films on Monday evenings. The event began in the early nineties and is now sponsored by HBO. What better way to enjoy the season than an outdoor film (or concert)? People bring picnics, chairs and/or blankets.
The death of theater has been predicted since the beginning of video and home entertainment systems, yet theater business booms. The numbers of drive-ins has declined dramatically - there are only about 400 nationwide. However, there is an independent revival afoot - groups like mobmov.org and guerilladrivein.org are doing impromptu screenings projected on surfaces like warehouse walls or bridge pillars. One thing missed in many of these fatalistic predictions are social needs. The huge turnouts for outdoor events, soldout theaters and independent revivals demonstrate this need. People enjoy sharing entertainment with other people, not just from the comfort of their homes.
Friday, June 18, Films on the Green presented the French Film 8 Women in Washington Square Park, shown in today's photo. The cast of eight, with Catherine Deneuve, may appear quite large, but not if With Six You Get Eggroll :)

Note: The Films on the Green series of free screenings is jointly organized by the Cultural Services of the French Embassy and the New York City Department of Parks & Recreation for the third year running.

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Wednesday, June 23, 2010

CYA


I was visiting a New York City doctor once and queried him as to why a specialist I had been referred to had ordered a number of tests which seemed unnecessary. He quickly and casually responded, "probably CYA." Embarrassed that I did not know the meaning of this acronym which apparently was common knowledge, I was forced to ask what it meant, to which he responded: "Cover Your Ass", i.e. order the obligatory tests to protect oneself from possible malpractice. CYA is practiced by many organizations and professionals, notably in banking and journalism.
Eleventh Avenue is one of the twelve numbered avenues in Manhattan.
The Commissioners' Plan of 1811 established a grid In Manhattan, between 14th and 155th Streets. As part of this plan, sixteen numbered and lettered avenues were created, running north/south, parallel to the Hudson River: First through Twelfth Avenue. Where Manhattan bulges outward in the East Village, avenues A, B, C and D (Alphabet City) were created. On the the Upper East Side,
Sutton Place/York Avenue was originally an extension of Avenue A.
Later, two avenues were sandwiched in between originals to the plan: Madison Avenue (between Fifth Avenue and Park Avenue, formerly Fourth Avenue), and Lexington Avenue (between Park Avenue and Third Avenue).
It is unlikely that the visitor to New York City will ever visit Eleventh Avenue, apart from the Meatpacking district, where Eleventh Avenue starts or the Jacob Javitts Convention Center.
What's happening on Eleventh? At one time, it was popularly known as "Death Avenue" owing to a section where the West Side Line of the New York Central Railroad ran directly along the avenue.
Today, there are a number of commercial establishments: the CBS Broadcast Center, Comedy Central studios, car washes, but, most notably, the largest concentration of auto dealers in Manhattan. If you are in the market for a Lamborghini, BMW, Jaguar, Mazda, Nissan, Acura, Lexus, Bentley, Rolls-Royce, Spyker, Porsche, or Lotus, this is where to go. There are a couple of architectural gems like the striking Gehry-designed IAC building at 18th and Eleventh - see my story and photos here.
Why, you might ask, would I do a posting on such an innocuous and essentially nondescript thoroughfare which few will visit when there is so much more of inherent interest in Manhattan? Because there are things we must all do and, although this is not Wikipedia, I would be somewhat amiss if I did not do at least one posting in these pages on Eleventh Avenue. Or simply, just a case of CYA :)

Monday, June 21, 2010

Mermaid Parade 2010


I have attended the annual Coney Island Mermaid Parade for the last four years. It is one of the most enjoyable parades in New York City. This year, the weather was extraordinary and the turnout enormous. Please visit my photo gallery of the event here.

Sunday, June 20, 2010

Barocknacht Mannheim

Sunday 20 June 2010
1600

The title means “Baroque Night Mannheim”. This was the name of the excellent musical event I attended yesterday evening. Presented by the MusikForum Mannheim, it was held in Schloss Mannheim, a former palace that I believe is now part of the university.

It was quite a venue for a concert – you couldn’t ask for much more in terms of atmosphere for a concert featuring baroque music played on period instruments. Here’s the outside of the entrance to the Schloss:




This was the entrance to the concert venue. I came out here to walk around and stretch in between performances.

They didn’t allow photography inside during the concert, but I took a picture of the room while they were getting ready. Here’s the room where the main performances were given:




The "Rittersaal" or "Knight's Hall" featured a wooden parquet floor, sculpted and marble-accented walls adorned with painted portraits, statues in the corners, chandeliers, and a fresco on the ceiling. Too perfect...

There were actually three simultaneous performances going on at any given time throughout the evening, with scheduled pauses in between. So while there was no way to hear everything, you had the opportunity to choose what you wanted to hear. I won’t list out the entire program, but the performances I attended included Handel, Galluppi, Viviani, Gabrielli, Bach, Vivaldi, and Telemann. Of these I had only been familiar with Bach and Vivaldi. The big surprise of the evening for me was Georg Philipp Telemann. I really enjoyed his music, and will immediately start to look for recordings of his work. Perhaps not coincidentally, there were more pieces by him in the program than any other composer (at least in the sessions I chose to attend).

For those who may be interested, here is a link to the Barocknacht Mannheim website:

http://www.barocknacht.de/

If you click on "Download: GESAMTPROGRAM" you will get the entire program on .pdf, including all the pieces they played.

My choices from this program were:

19.00: Rittersaal – Trumpet Sound
19.45: Gartensaal – Piccolo Violincello
20.30: Gartensaal – Pariser Quartett
21.15: Rittersaal – Telemann Concerto
22.00: Rittersaal – Ebb’ und Fluth

There was one extra piece they played that was not on the program. It was a really cool piece that featured a flute and a singer with the rest of the ensemble in accompaniment. It was an aria by Vivaldi, from “Orlando Furioso, known as “sol da te” from the first words. I’ve listened to a couple of recordings of it since last evening, but none of them match the energy of the performance I saw. They seem a little tame – but maybe that’s an inevitable difference between a live performance and a recording. It sure adds a lot to be able to see them play in person!

Attendance was about 1/3 of the capacity of the venue, which I’d have considered disappointing. The audience was mostly older people (meaning older than me, and I’m on the high side of 50). I was briefly encouraged when some younger people showed up, but as the evening progressed it became apparent that they were mostly musicians in between appearances in the program, or friends of the musicians. It isn’t as though they aren’t trying to reach out to younger people - I found out about the performance through an ad on Facebook.

The upside of this was that it was very intimate – I had no trouble sitting very close. I really enjoyed watching the musicians perform. Some were very reserved and workmanlike, others very animated and energetic. On the whole, they really seemed to be enjoying themselves. They were almost uniformly young – very few looked like they were even yet in their thirties, and there were only one or two who could even possibly have been forty.

All in all it was a wonderful evening. I felt very acutely the absence of someone to share it with, and was alternately missing my girlfriend (who I won’t see until August) and my daughters (who fly here for a visit tomorrow). Too bad about the timing – it would have been a nice thing to go to together.

Mood: Happy
Music: “Cessata, omai cessate”, RV 684, Antonio Vivaldi

Friday, June 18, 2010

Everything No


On April 4, 2008, I wrote Key Privileges, about Gramercy Park - the city's exclusive private enclave and Manhattan's only private park. Read the story of the park here. That visit, was like that of virtually all New York City residents and visitors - from the outside.
Recently, a friend, a regular reader of this website and Gramercy neighborhood resident who lives just off the park, let me know that she was in possession of a rare and highly coveted article - a key to Gramercy Park. The key was loaned to her by a friend who was away for a short time, so time was fleeting and my window of opportunity. A number of us were invited for the outing, so we decided to meet at an opening at the National Arts Club on Gramercy Park South. The convenient location on the park and a short immersion into the club's historic structure made it the perfect launching point for our excursion into the park. The National Arts Club, which also abuts the Players Club, is housed in one of New York's finest mansions, both a designated New York Landmark and a National Historic Landmark. The building, located at 15 Gramercy Park South, is worthy of a visit itself.
I made a big ceremonial event about the unveiling of the key and the opening of the park gate. Gramercy Park requires a key both to enter and leave. Once inside, we toured the park, spent some time enjoying the extraordinary bucolic ambiance and alighted on a number of benches for some friendly chatting. See my gallery of photos here.
All of our group was in agreement however that although the park's landscaping and natural beauty was quite exquisite, the park itself, with its list of don'ts, was rather boring. In fact, the park is not heavily used.
The list of rules is quite long (see them here). After reading them on our way out and observing a nearby "Please No Pets" sign, one of our group was prompted to comment "everything no." A recent immigrant to the USA, we found her outside perspective and slightly broken English to be a charming, succinct and not altogether inaccurate characterization of the environment. Smiling, I felt compelled to respond, "yes, everything no." ...

Thursday, June 17, 2010

Cast Iron Stomach


I recall my roommate in 1970, telling me that he was moving to a "loft in SoHo." My first question was of course "Where is SoHo?", the second was "What is a loft?" and the last was "why?" It may be hard to imagine, but when I first moved to New York City, SoHo was quite undesirable - an industrial backwater with little residential appeal.
Remarkably, I lived in the Village and SoHo was just a stone's throw away, south of Houston Street, yet I had never been there. A visit quickly revealed an industrial neighborhood with little charm at all. Regarding the term "loft", I was told that this term derived from the large, upper floor "lofty" spaces. And the "why" was simple - cheap rents.
In hindsight, the explanations of why a New York City neighborhood was "discovered" always appear obvious. However, the individual is rare who will recognize this before it is "discovered" - early adopters are often artists who see the merits shining through the demerits, which are typically many.
Becoming a pioneer of an unpopular neighborhood is now much more difficult - everyone is looking for the next place and news moves with extreme rapidity.
More importantly, all the reasons why a neighborhood looks undesirable and shows little promise is what really prevents most from getting in early. Successful stock investors know this well and have the ability to go against human nature and buy when stocks are going down much as the pioneer, in spite of popular sentiment, moves to neighborhoods that are downtrodden.
Another huge issue in "buying in on the ground floor" is waiting until an area improves. This could take decades. Worst, many areas never fulfill their promise. I have always felt that housing stock was a key element. This is no guarantee either - areas like Bedford Stuyvesant, Brooklyn and Harlem have beautiful row houses, yet have not seen the rapid gentrification that other areas have.
Despite the improvements in these communities, they often continue to be stigmatized by a lingering public perception left from the rougher times of the past.
If you believe you are a person that really can see past a place's obvious detriments, go to Brooklyn and visit the Gowanus Canal. Some tout this as the future Venice of New York City.
Once a tidal inlet of creeks, marshland and meadows, Gowanus Canal was built from Gowanus Creek and completed in 1869. The Gowanus Canal became a hub for Brooklyn's shipping activity to service the factories, warehouses, tanneries, coal yards, machine shops, chemical plants, flour mills, cement factories and manufactured gas refineries lining its shores. Industry thrived in the area and with it, pollutants. The area has had an acknowledged problem with industrial pollution for over a century with cleanup discussions going back decades. On March 4, 2010 the EPA announced that it had placed the Gowanus Canal on its Superfund National Priorities List
Gowanus Canal and the surrounding neighborhood have a much greater impasse and many hurdles to becoming a viable residential enclave, much less a charming Venetian-like waterway. There is little charm in oil tanks or scrap metal yards and improving an area like this is a taller order than cleaning up the cast iron buildings of SoHo or the beautiful brick structures of Dumbo, Brooklyn.
But a bright future could be in store for those with a long vision and, like anyone waiting out the transformation of an industrial neighborhood, a cast iron stomach :)

Wednesday, June 16, 2010

Explorin' Part 2 - Dead Horse Bay



The name Dead Horse Bay is provocative enough and the place easily lives up to its name.
A coworker told me about this beach in Brooklyn along with a requisite piece of information - go during low tide. So, I examined the tide tables for Jamaica Bay, New York City and timed my trip accordingly. I parked my vehicle at the ranger station at Floyd Bennett Field. A walk across the main thoroughfare and short hike through the beach forest trail opens up to the bay. Surprisingly, none of the rangers had made the hike and were eager to hear my report upon return.
The beach is strewn with a myriad of artifacts - primarily glass bottles, forming a blue-green carpet of glass. Make no mistake, however, Dead Horse Bay is essentially a beach of trash, albeit very interesting trash. There are dishes, toys, parts of sinks, rusted metal devices and even mating horseshoe crabs - see my gallery of photos here. The history of this bizarre place is always the first question asked. From the New York Times:

Dead Horse Bay sits at the western edge of a marshland once dotted by more than two dozen horse-rendering plants, fish oil factories and garbage incinerators. From the 1850's until the 1930's, the carcasses of dead horses and other animals from New York City streets were used to manufacture glue, fertilizer and other products at the site. The chopped-up, boiled bones were later dumped into the water. The squalid bay, then accessible only by boat, was reviled for the putrid fumes that hung overhead.

Once marshland, the area became slowly filled with trash and the landfill capped. The cap burst in the 1950's, spewing articles from the early 20th century into the surrounding beach water.

After walking the entire beach, I was prepared to leave. However, the fact that I had seen no evidence of dead horses was nagging at me, so I decided to backtrack and question a woman who I had noticed earlier had been combing with the intent of a repeat visitor. Alas, good that I did - Angela pointed out that horse bones were in fact everywhere, you just had to know what to look for. Sure enough, once they were pointed out to me and my companion, we saw them everywhere. Angela had found what appeared to be a 32-sided game die and asked if I take photos for her. You can see it here.

If you visit Dead Horse Bay, remember to wear good shoes/boots to protect you from all the shards of glass and other sharp objects. Oh, and happy explorin' :)

Wednesday, June 9, 2010

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Friday, June 4, 2010

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